I t ‘s the center out of Chicken. Konya, a local from so many souls, squatting smack in the exact middle of Anatolia’s wild plain, surrounded by discover, limitless prairie. Turkey’s most culturally traditional urban area, Konya appears initially to get a location out of strict headscarves and you will foreboding beards, out of ostentatiously observed pieties and you can forbidden beers. However, uncovering Konya is easy – getting here, in the middle of the old area, within his tomb away from turquoise ceramic tiles, was Jelaluddin Rumi.
Rumi is among the earth’s extremely discover poets. During the his lifetime, and because their demise within the 1273, pilgrims came in order to Konya. Now, Rumi’s tomb was Turkey’s 2nd very-visited tourist destination following the Topkapi Palace from inside the Istanbul. Rumi was a mystic, good Sufi saint which enjoyed the religions, and you can whoever very own faith was like. His followers do (nonetheless manage) treat on their own in trance and you can dance, both rotating such as for instance passes non-stop.
There is certainly a big, epic the municipal auditorium in which which sensitive spinning people dancing is actually performed, and one number of pleasant shiny-eyed mystics during the carpeting stores, cafes and you may gothic bazaars, all of the happy so you’re able to receive one an exclusive zikhr
Such spinning dervishes are now the symbol of Turkey’s tourist methods, and you can drink beverage on your Istanbul lodge lobby watching specific worst bloke from inside the a taller beige felt cap whirling getting your own entertainment. Towards real deal, even when, come heree in order to Konya while arrive at Turkey’s spirit. In Rumi’s terms:
“Whoever you are, become Even if you may be A keen infidel, an effective pagan, otherwise good fireworshipper, been The brotherhood isn’t one of depression If you possess broken Their vows off repentance one hundred moments, already been.”
Every season once the 1983, I was future on a few million-or-thus visitors exactly who see Konya per year. Most are Turkish, while most Iranians (which allege Rumi since their very own, since the he published within language and you may grew up in east Persia) also improve pilgrimage.
In lieu of making Konya a stop towards the a bus journey, I would suggest becoming for many months, soaking-up an impression, dinner several of Turkey’s most readily useful mutton, enjoying the most useful Seljuk tissues and you will – possibly – shedding in love with Rumi. You might fly within the affordably out-of Istanbul, that there’s also an excellent scruffy, atmospheric train, or come by road. Konya is within simple arrived at of cave dwellers and you will carpeting suppliers from Cappadocia.
Rumi showed up right here as the a beneficial boy, whenever Konya got been a location for two,000 decades. It had been centered from the Hittites, who had been succeeded from the Phrygians, then Lydians, Persians, Cappadocians, the newest kings regarding Pergamon while the Romans, just who called the lay Iconium. Saints Paul and you can Barnabus one another preached here, but by the 1071 the Seljuks, an effective Turcoman group, was in fact responsible, in addition to their structural legacy suffers.
Their Karatay Medrese off 1251 are a masterpiece out-of elaborate tiling and good domes. It’s now the fresh Art gallery from Ceramic tiles and you may Ceramics, whoever contents take care of the vibrancy and punch they’d when basic discharged. Nearby, the latest Ince Minarali Medrese has started to become new Art gallery from Stone and you will Wood Sculpture, in fact it is a lot less deceased than just I’ve managed to get sound. These two buildings whet urge for food to get the ornately tiled Sircali Medrese, and breathtaking Sahip Ata mosque: rather than much of the new Muslim world, from inside the Turkey you are motivated to visit mosques, any sort of your spiritual choices.
In the junction of your dated city and its unsightly brand new neighbour is the Alaaddin mosque, the newest city’s vantage point, whose beautiful dark pulpit and you can delicate prayer-market come from 1155 (the brand new cutting-edge was completed in 1221). New boulevard radiating from this point will bring that Rumi’s tomb, where alot more later. Rumi is recognized to Turks since Mevlana (this new Sainted You to definitely), and today Konya is within thrall so you’re able to Mevlanamania.
When i basic showed up, Mevlana’s followers, the fresh new Mevlevi, was a prohibited organization, tolerated simply for their “folkloric moving” and whirlings. Conferences occurred covertly, dishonestly.
I mentioned eating, as well. Konya’s lamb-centric food is very good. Etli ekmek are an extended, narrow roll-up pizza pie bequeath that have delicately spiced mince, and you can Konya kebab is a lamb shank, very slow roasted and you may offered on the a pillow out-of dough with a nice reddish onion. A was at Konak (Restoran, Akcesme mah. Piriesat Cad. No 5, +ninety 332 352 85 47), whoever soups and you can selfmade yoghurt try paradise-made.
For this reason, wonderfully fed, with of numerous cups of nice tannic beverage in you, help make your treatment for Rumi’s tomb. You join the awestruck, the newest interested together with fervent. A strange twinkly light plays toward tombs from Rumi and you will his supporters. New walls is stitched that have calligraphy, while the ceilings try an effective kaleidoscope of incredibly executed arabesques. Rumi’s tomb is covered when you look at the vastly padded material regarding gold, and appears to radiate white and you may tranquility and you will mercy.
Are common gone, to possess listed here is like
Some of their fellow pilgrims have a tendency to understand Korans, and others Rumi’s poetry. Really get photo, while this is purely forbidden. Discover those who weep gently, and people who laugh out loud; people who meditate for hours, and people who rush using.
To try out unofficially and you can insinuating itself to your understanding ‘s the ney, good reed flute. It may sound such as for instance breathy heavens, it is actually the sound from flame, and therefore goes up and you will drops to the all of us. This isn’t specific sullen religious complaining, nevertheless voice regarding wanting, of communion, of one’s cardiovascular system. You really have they – it is soul tunes, and it really sends you. So become.
Turkish Air companies (020-7471 6666) flies to Konya via Istanbul regarding Heathrow, Stansted, Birmingham and you may Manchester, out-of ?219 rtn inc fees. Istanbul to Konya by rail costs from around ?24 get back, or about ?thirty-six get back by bus. Resort Balikcilar keeps rooms or about ?70 (and get suits cooler drinks). Lodge Dergah (+90 332 351 76 61) room doing ?20. Entry observe the new spinning dervishes are clear of brand new website visitors workplace, behind Mevlana’s tomb. Mete Horzum in the SeleneTour (+90 532 564 9192, ) arranges personal whirling varme Colombian kvinner and you may zikhr regarding ?30pp.
